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My move to Kyiv was more of an accident laced with the intangible—a decision rooted in a feeling and impulse over rationality or reason.I can point out the obvious: it’s a beautiful city, it’s an economical place to live, it’s in a great position to connect with the world (2 hours to Istanbul, 2 hours to Berlin), it’s adventurous, it’s a city with a rich soul, its women are beautiful, it’s real, it has human connections that run deep, it’s modest with a rich history, and so on….

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A Soviet-Era, concrete monolithic building with the heaviness of an iceberg stands behind the bus.There is a “bitcoin embassy” in the small park inside the roundabout.A red double-decker bus from London sits on the side of the roundabout across from the crumbling building.Inside the bus has been creatively transformed into a charming café with a modern espresso machine and ornate tables and chairs.I chalked my confusion up to one of the differences in perspective, like in the language.

As a hawk flies high above, tracing the river’s flow from north to south, it sees the right bank from the opposite perspective, and therefore the right bank is associated with the flow of the river.My intention was to spend a few days in the city, and then go on a long trip back to Rome, through Eastern Europe, via trains and buses.During those two weeks, I never left a two-mile radius in the old city.Leaning too far one way could bring the weight of the other side crashing down on top of it.But enough of the cliché geopolitical ranting; let me try another way of explaining this place.The ideology of swinging between the extremes is baked into the psychology of the Ukrainian people, and everything here seems to function in the ways of the banya.